This marks the first Ann Demeulemeester collection created without the legendary Antwerp Six member. When we saw the new pieces, two things ran through our mind. The first was that there was a somber, reflective feeling to the latest AW14 collection. Something in the design jumped out as mourning the loss of Demeulemeester from her line. The next was that her team was prepared to fill her shoes and follow in her footsteps. Gone are the prints and patterns of collections past, with the team getting back to the basics: black.
To us, the collection comes off as a bit safe, but has everything a Demeulemeester fan is looking for. Creamy leather, beautiful wool crepe, and finely unstructured silhouettes all make an appearance. Almost every look has been drenched in black, with the exception of a few glittering-gold menswear pieces that have been sprinkled throughout the collection, and we loved it. You should also checkout the few sets of white looks they included to offset the intense darkness, as well as breakup any monotony in the collection. In the end its proof that drama comes naturally to anything the team puts together. One of the focal points of the collection was a variety of interpretations of the double-breasted trench coat. It was chopped and screwed into a variety of flowing, unstructured dresses, drapey shirts, and reimagined coats. Match that up with the twisted ruched belts and gathered-and-stacked dresses – damn it was beautiful.
So, while it was not the most forward looking collection, we thought it worked. The silhouettes and textiles were beautiful, and served as an easy introduction to the new team. However, while we can let this collection pass, we will be looking to see more growth and exploration in the future. At the end of the day, this collection pays both homage and respect to Demeulemeester, the designer, and serves as a beautiful foundation for the brand to move forward in her footsteps.
Runway images by STYLE.com